While leaving some room for judicious experimentation, the dinner jacket, or tuxedo, is actually a uniform, and if one observes a few ground rules, the look is difficult to screw up (although plenty of guys manage to do so.)Men's Wardrobe
It was a little slow today, and I promised a friend I'd help him with a DFI project for the inauguration. He happens to be lucky enough to have a "golden ticket" to one of the balls and asked me to help with a "tux"... shudder eek-everyone repeat after me, it's "black tie" or "formal dress" from here on out.
It's been years since I had to dust off my fashion college degree regarding black tie, so I thought I could cheat a little and check out what James Bond is wearing - seriously why not, the man is synonymous with great formal wear!
I ran into multiple snags. First off black tie is 70% etiquette (which I'd forgotten), and Tom Ford dressed him in midnight blue. Yeah I know it's done but not by me!
Blue, isn't going to fly in my friend's world, and DC isn't exactly the place to make that kind of fashion statement. Poor guy be explaining it all night. London and Paris perhaps - fuddy duddy DC, um not so much. (Insert arguement from Mr. Bespoke here).
For those of you still reading - and I'd guess that's about two of you - after color choice the next big decision is lapel style. This also determines the shirt style so pay attention. Here again there are definite differences between continents. A notched collar is the most popular choice in the United States, but a shawl collar (without notches) or a peaked lapel are considered more traditional in Europe and the United Kingdom. In the interest of full disclosure, I'm not a fan of the peaked lapel (with two points of fabric that point upwards and a narrow amount of space between the collar and lapel). The current Bond has worn both a shawl collar and a peaked one.
So more searching was necessary, I ended up here, which has chapter and verse on shirts, tradition and other endlessly useful tips.
I blog this in the hope that as the days count down to the historic Obama-Biden inauguration no one utters the word "tux" again in from of me and I don't have to have to have a PTSD flash back to the proms I attended in the early 80's and the boys who wished to make bold fashion statements.
Tips and other stuff below the flip.
Black Tie Defined
1. dinner jacket color:
• black is the norm
• midnight blue is equally correct
model can be:
• single-breasted
• double-breasted
lapels can be:
• peaked lapel
• shawl collar
• notched collar is most popular but considered
inappropriate by traditionalists
and can have:
• satin facing
• grosgrain facing
sleeve buttons: covered in same fabric as lapel facings
vents: no vents is most formal
2. black-tie trousers color and material to match jacket
single braid along seams to match lapel facings
cut for suspenders
3. black-tie waist covering black waist covering can be either:
• cummerbund made from silk to match jacket facings
• waistcoat made from silk or same material as jacket
worn with single-breasted jacket models but not with double-breasted
some style experts claim that waist coverings are not worn much these days
4. black-tie shirt
white fabric
collar can be:
• wing collar, described by many authorities as the most formal but some insist it is the exclusive domain of white tie
• turndown collar
fronts can be either pleated or piqué
shirt has eyelets for studs and French cuffs for links; some authorities allow for fly-fronts
5. black-tie neckwear
black silk bow tie to match lapel facings
6. black-tie footwear
black shoes:
• patent leather pumps are most traditional
• patent or highly polished oxfords are acceptable
7. black-tie accessories black silk or fine fabric hose, over-the-calf length
suspenders of black or white silk
harmonizing black, gold or mother-of-pearl studs and cufflinks
white silk or linen handkerchief
outerwear chesterfield coat is most conventional but any other dark dressy coat is acceptable; rain (trench) coats are not appropriate
evening dress scarf of white silk with tassels
More on the shirts:
In North America there are two equally correct styles of shirts that may be worn with a dinner jacket: the wing collar and the turndown collar. Either style can be paired with any of the four archetypal jackets but the wing collar’s dramatic points harmonize best with the angles of the peaked-lapel jacket. Conversely, the hidden tips of the turndown spread collar complement the more discreet lines of the shawl-collar jacket.
Comments (12)
Wow Juliana, I am shocked that you would say that highly polished black oxfords are "acceptable". In much the same way they can be worn all the time, they really shouldn't be worn formally. And no mention of the velvet slipper? For shame!
Also, the mohair tuxedo in a nice blue is actually good looking.
"there is nothing more pathetic than a failed flamboyant"
hehehe - that line had me cracking up
FANTASTIC find Juliana!
IRE - the velvet slipper was mentioned in another section, I believe the variations section. However, it was noted that velvet evening slippers were acceptable ONLY at private events
The Sartorialist is filled with pics of the VS during the day. I kind of like it.
http://wasp101.blogspot.com/2008/10/i-like-it-but-i-cant-approve-it.html
Takes a bit of panache to wear it during the day though. If you have your family crest emblazoned on your VS, you are f*cking golden. In life.
IRE..as has rightly been pointed out velvet is just for private parties in stately homes..not January in DC schleping across city streets.
Someday remind me to show you the picture I took of the ex-pat Englishman at the Uffizi in Florence-it's an outfit not to be believed. I have no doubt he has monogramed VS..
I've been troubled by what I've seen recently w/r/t black tie and that is dudes not covering their waist (and yall know who you are).
A cumberbund, DB jacket, or waistcoat (which you should strive to have in a DB style) are NOT optional OR dandyish. Think about your shirts, the waist area is flat. Coincidence? No I think not and you shouldn't either.
Also, please for the love of god, don't use a batwing bowtie.
IRE...where have you been witnessing this atrocities?
AN ENTIRE F%CKING WEDDING PARTY THIS WEEKEND was one place, forget what it was earlier in the week that I came across, practically any time Dems go to formal things.
And just to make sure people know if I was being dandy I'd say Opera Scarves should always be worn (Btw: one of my friends who tries to dress well but only can do it cause he has some money wore a white dinner jacket with a black bow tie. It totally made me LAWLz. British nobility made their waiters wear that so they would know they are at a formal to-do and they don't belong.)
Hm.
I may need IRE and Jules to do a once over of Tony's black-tie wedding outfit.
Really? I can't say tuxedo?
Jen:I'm happy to help, just name the time and place..
IRE: you seem very tense, was the wedding fun? Opera scarves.. really, it seems like a like to keep up with.
Just whatever you do, don't do this.
http://concreteloop.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/84088267.jpg
I really wish there was something good to say/redeeming about this.
I don't even know where to begin.
Yikes, there's a Louis Vuitton logo embossed into that thing.
I hope that's not what passes for class these days.
I want to point out more exceptional use of the velvet slipper as non formal ware.
http://www.kishidadays.com/yanchamen/archives/2008/12/000468.html